Definitive megasquirt installation

I'll try to cover as much as I can here, from the beginner stuff to advanced. I'll also try to have some videos. Thanks to www. All the other tools you already have if you work on a car or else you are a crazy to even attempt a job like this.

First the carpet : On my car it must have been an old carpet because I just pulled it back, but you may need to remove the passenger door trim panel and the kick panel.

Protective Panel next : 5 bolts are holding it, 3 on the bottom and 2 up top. I left my ECU outside, just in case, until everything is working fine. So if you have a similar issue you can get an adapter from most electronic stores, just make sure you get the one with the installation disc. Then you have to match the correct ports. You can check in your windows settings which USB port you are using and match it in the connection setting in the Tuner program. Keep in mind that in some cases you will only be allowed to use the same USB port.

So if you plug into a different USB port in the same computer it may not work. Anyway once you are all hooked up turn on the power and then start the program and there you go. Next I will show how to hook up Wideband oxygen sensor because tuning a car with narrowband is like trying to drive a car while looking trough a keyhole.

Electrical pliers one that strips wires and cramps the cramp connectors , fuse splitter, soldering iron, heat shrink. Most of the people never wonder how to join two wires together, they either solder them together or cramp them together.

Well the problem with just soldering them together is that if the wire vibrates or flexes a lot, with time the copper will break off at the base of the weld. On the other hand cramping the wires give a bit more play to the wires but the problem is that you are cramping it with some other metal and you usually will not put heat shrink over the cramp.

So with dissimilar metals and some moisture, you are laying down a welcome mat for corrosion. Put heat shrink on one of the wires 2. Twist the wires 3. Solder only the tips together 4. Bend over the tips 5. Put heat shrink over and apply heat. If you burn yourself or set something on fire it is your fault because you did not listen to the warning!

Here is the mini computer for the wideband O2 sensor. I installed the CPU on the other side of the firewall in the wiper compartment so it stays cool.

It is raised so no water gets to it too. But you can find a better place. Since the coils are waste spark I could simply set the firmware to sequential ignition and put in the first six of the firing order. I wouldn't get sequential injection that way but I could do some minor tuning in batch fire.

Or would I? Would it only trigger the first six injectors? I think the real answer will be setting the 2JZ VVTi code to accept 12 cylinders, from my review of the source code it can currently handle 6 and 8 1UZ motor.

Re: 1GZ-FE V12 support by jsmcortina » Fri Feb 06, pm Have you been able to run the engine as wasted spark, semi-sequential using the regular wheel decoder set to ?

That would let you determine the correct tooth 1 angle. I can then set the built-in decoder to use that same angle as well as decoding the cam signal and running fully sequential.

I can repair or upgrade Megasquirts in UK. We have verified that a tooth 1 angle of gives a cranking timing of 10 BTDC as commmanded by the controller. Re: 1GZ-FE V12 support by jsmcortina » Sat Feb 07, am elutionsdesign wrote: It will fire but not stay running as the cam signals cause a cam sync error. You will learn a lot in the process and if you so choose you will come out of it with the knowledge to properly tune your car for the current configuration you have now, and for any future power combo you can dream up and implement.

There is no limit to what you can do or to how much power you can make with this engine management system. This MegaSquirt thing is no joke. Then read some more. If you skip this step you will be asking questions later that you could already know the answers to. Then read applicable sections on your ECU choice at www.

The search feature is your friend. Will the MegaSquirt-II work with this signal? We have FIVE full time tech support gents on the team known for their knowledge base and response times. Please see this list of questions and help us help you.

Check out Youtube for some good solder technique videos like this one. We do often recommend you build your own MegaSquirt at least the first time around as it will familiarize you with the hardware particularly if mods are going to be required for your implementation. The following list of questions will generally need answers to in order to assist with this.

If you find or write more install docs that we can add here please let us know. You can click on any of the headings below to view an example of the product with pictures. The v2. The v3. All of the improvements with the V3.

The main high level differences are that the uprated flyback circuitry is included so you can run low or high impedance injectors, there are several improvements to make the board more robust and harder to damage in the event of a mis-wire or overload event. Otherwise it is almost identical to the v3. The only other major differences are:. This was a common modification applied to the v3. B the addition of a DB15 connector next to the DB9. C Several signal pads have been added making common modifications easier.

D The prototype area was sacrificed removed to make all of the above possible. Otherwise, if the small difference in price is worth it to you to go with a tougher and more featured board that was built with expansion in mind, the v3. Some prefer the thru hole v3. See the above to decide your preference between the two. The MS1 and MS2 cases are is 6.

The MS3 cases are a little taller, about 6. If you do ever mod your car again it will likely need to be re-chipped, on a dyno by a qualified tuner, to get the maximum performance out of it.

Sequential fuel injection attempts to only spray fuel while the intake valve is open for the cylinder that is about to fire, which in most cases is only possible at low engine speeds between idle and low speed cruising.

Benefits can be seen in emissions, drivability, and fuel economy particularly at these low engine speeds and loads. Batch injection which is what the MegaSquirt-I and and most MegaSquirt-II versions do does not attempt to spray only when the valve is open.

Peak power was more or less the same so long as we did not employ individual cylinder tuning on the sequential injection system. If you want to know where sequential fuel injection systems really shine in getting the MOST out of a motor, read on! MSPNP Pro systems offer the same support of sequential fuel injection for up to 8 cylinders and more is possible if we were to build an MSPNP Pro for a vehicle with higher cylinder count, the core supports it.

There can be minor emissions and fuel economy benefits particularly at very low speeds though. While you can adjust the timing in the same manner as with a stock ECU by adjusting the distributor, MSPNP gives you another option: adjust the trigger angle with TunerStudio under the spark settings.

Increase the trigger angle to retard the spark, or decrease it to advance the spark. Adjust the number until the timing is at 10 degrees. MSPNP requires a trigger angle of at least 50 degrees on this unit to obtain full spark advance. If you adjust the distributor for adjusting the timing advance, set the trigger angle to default value of 72 degrees in TunerStudio and turn the distributor until the timing is at a steady 10 degrees BTDC, then lock the cam angle sensor back down there and check the timing with the light to make sure the distributor didn't slip.

If you run out of adjustment, use the trigger angle setting in TunerStudio to get the correct timing. The timing marks are on the front of the engine.

The timing mark on the crank pulley may be hard to see, but there is a dab of white paint at 10 degrees. This is optional on the KA24E, but may help resolve issues if the sensor gives false hot readings where it is absorbing heat from the intake manifold. The best location for an IAT sensor is just upstream of the throttle body. If racing class rules do not permit you to remove or even unplug the mass air flow sensor, you may wire the IAT to pins 10 and 15 on the pin option connector on the v1.

For most users, you'll want to unplug the MAF and connect the IAT sensor to the pins corresponding to the white and orange wires "B" and "C" pins on the mass air flow sensor. You can use the pins in our IAT sensor kit, plugged into the MAF connector, and fold over and secure with high temperature tape.

Remove the lid and find 3 pin header on the lowest board labeled "Pin 16 input". Pull the connecting jumper off this header and place it on the center pin and the rightmost pin, marked "AT". After installing the IAT, turn the ignition key on but do not start the engine.